HSK 5 · Article · 653 characters · Listen: mandarinthewild.com/library/read/what-is-a-beijing-hutong

胡同是什么?

What is a Beijing hutong?

Name: ________________ Date: ________

在zài北京běijīng,手机shǒujī导航dǎoháng有时yǒushí会huì告诉gàosù你nǐ:“前方qiánfāng五十wǔshí米mǐ右转yòuzhuǎn,进入jìnrù胡同hútòng。”你nǐ拐guǎi进去jìnqu一yí看kàn,路lù窄zhǎi得de只能zhǐnéng过guò一yí辆liàng自行车zìxíngchē,两边liǎngbiān是shì灰色huīsè的de砖墙zhuānqiáng,墙头qiángtóu上shàng探tàn出chū一yì棵kē枣树zǎoshù,一yí位wèi大爷dàyé坐zuò在zài门口ménkǒu的de小xiǎo板凳bǎndèng上shàng下棋xiàqí。这zhè就是jiùshì胡同hútòng。很hěn多duō第一次dìyīcì来lái北京běijīng的de人rén都dōu会huì好奇hàoqí:胡同hútòng到底dàodǐ是shì什么shénme?这zhè个gè词cí又yòu是shì从cóng哪儿nǎr来lái的de?

简单jiǎndān地de说shuō,胡同hútòng就是jiùshì北京běijīng的de小xiǎo巷子xiàngzi。不过búguò,“胡同hútòng”这zhè两liǎng个gè字zì本身běnshēn看不出kànbuchū任何rènhé意思yìsi。有yǒu一yì种zhǒng说法shuōfǎ认为rènwéi,它tā来自láizì蒙古语ménggúyǔ里表示biǎoshì“水井shuíjǐng”的de一yí个gè词cí。元朝yuáncháo时shí,蒙古人ménggǔrén在zài这里zhèlǐ建起jiànqǐ了le元大都yuándàdū,也yě就是jiùshì今天jīntiān北京城běijīngchéng的de前身qiánshēn。人们rénmen的de生活shēnghuó离不开líbukāi水shuǐ,房子fángzi往往wángwǎng围wéi着zhe水井shuíjǐng修建xiūjiàn,井jǐng边biān的de小路xiǎolù慢慢mànmàn就jiù成chéng了le胡同hútòng。当然dāngrán,这zhè只是zhǐshì学者xuézhě的de一种yìzhǒng推测tuīcè,至今zhìjīn仍réng有yǒu不同bùtóng的de看法kànfǎ。

胡同hútòng两边liǎngbiān排列páiliè着zhe的de大多dàduō是shì四合院sìhéyuàn。所谓suǒwèi四合院sìhéyuàn,指zhǐ的de是shì四面sìmiàn都dōu有yǒu房子fángzi、中间zhōngjiān围wéi着zhe一个yígè院子yuànzi的de住宅zhùzhái。过去guòqù,一个yígè院子yuànzi里常常chángcháng住zhù着zhe一家yìjiā几jǐ代dài人rén,孩子háizi们men出chū了le门mén就jiù在zài胡同hútòng里玩wán,邻居línjū之间zhījiān也yě特别tèbié熟悉shúxī。北京běijīng的de冬天dōngtiān漫长màncháng又yòu寒冷hánlěng,房子fángzi大多dàduō朝南cháonán,好让ràng阳光yángguāng照zhào进jìn屋wū里,所以suóyǐ大部分dàbùfen胡同hútòng是shì东西dōngxī走向zǒuxiàng的de,南北nánběi方向fāngxiàng的de小路xiǎolù再zài把bǎ它们tāmen连lián在zài一起yìqǐ。从cóng空中kōngzhōng往wǎng下xià看kàn,老lǎo北京城běijīngchéng就jiù像xiàng一块yíkuài整整齐齐zhéngzhěng-qíqí的de棋盘qípán。

当然dāngrán,也yě有yǒu不bù守规矩shǒuguīju的de胡同hútòng。前门大街qiánmén-dàjiē附近fùjìn的de钱市胡同,最zuì窄zhǎi的de地方dìfang只有zhíyǒu四十sìshí厘米límǐ左右zuǒyòu,两liǎng个gè人rén迎面yíngmiàn走zǒu过来guòlai,必须bìxū有yǒu一yí个gè人rén侧cè着zhe身子shēnzi让路rànglù。还有háiyǒu一yì条tiáo九jiǔ道dào湾wān胡同hútòng,弯来弯去wānlái-wānqù,一共yígòng拐guǎi了le十九shíjiǔ个gè弯wān,第一次dìyīcì走zǒu进去jìnqu的de人rén很hěn容易róngyì迷路mílù。

根据gēnjù清朝qīngcháo的de记录jìlù,北京běijīng直接zhíjiē叫jiào“胡同hútòng”的de街巷jiēxiàng有yǒu九百多jiúbǎiduō条tiáo;到dào1949年nián,已经yǐjīng增加zēngjiā到dào一千三百多yìqiānsānbǎiduō条tiáo。可是kěshì在zài后来hòulái几十年jǐshínián的de城市chéngshì改造gǎizào中zhōng,大量dàliàng胡同hútòng被bèi拆除chāichú,拆chāi掉diào的de地方dìfang盖起gàiqǐ了le高楼gāolóu,建起jiànqǐ了le宽阔kuānkuò的de马路mǎlù。留下来liúxialai的de胡同hútòng,一部分yíbùfen成chéng了le热闹rènao的de景点jíngdiǎn,挤满jímǎn了le拍照pāizhào的de游客yóukè;另lìng一部分yíbùfen依然yīrán安静ānjìng,住zhù着zhe一辈子yíbèizi没méi离开líkāi过guò这里zhèlǐ的de老人lǎorén。

所以suóyǐ,下次xiàcì导航dǎoháng让ràng你nǐ拐guǎi进jìn胡同hútòng的de时候shíhou,不妨bùfáng放慢fàngmàn脚步jiǎobù。在zài这些zhèxiē窄窄zháizhǎi的de路上lùshang,你nǐ看到kàndào的de不bù只是zhǐshì一yì条tiáo小巷xiǎoxiàng,而是érshì一yí座zuò城市chéngshì七百多qībǎiduō年nián的de日常生活rìcháng-shēnghuó。

Key words

WordPinyinMeaning
进入jìnrùto enter; to get into
棵kēclassifier for trees, plants and vegetables
胡同hútòngalley; lane; hutong
窄zhǎinarrow
灰色huīsègray
大爷dàyé(polite) grandpa; old sir (to an older man)
好奇hàoqícurious
围wéito surround; to encircle
修建xiūjiànto build; to construct
学者xuézhěscholar; academic
至今zhìjīnto this day; so far; until now
排列páilièto arrange; to line up

English (for the teacher)

In Beijing, your phone's map app will sometimes tell you, “In fifty metres, turn right into the hutong.” You turn in and look: the lane is only wide enough for one bicycle, grey brick walls run along both sides, a jujube tree leans out over the top of a wall, and an old man sits on a little stool by his door playing chess. This is a hutong. Plenty of people in Beijing for the first time wonder: what exactly is a hutong? And where does the word come from?

Put simply, a hutong is one of Beijing's little lanes. But the two characters 胡同 don't tell you anything by themselves. One theory is that the word comes from a Mongolian word meaning “well”. In the Yuan dynasty the Mongols built their capital, Dadu, here, the city that became today's Beijing. People can't live without water, so houses were often built around wells, and the paths beside the wells slowly became hutongs. Of course, this is only one scholarly guess, and opinions still differ today.

The houses lined up along a hutong are mostly siheyuan. A siheyuan is a home with buildings on all four sides around a courtyard in the middle. In the old days one courtyard was often home to several generations of a family, the children went out the door to play in the hutong, and neighbours knew each other especially well. Beijing winters are cold and long, so most houses face south to let the sun into the rooms; that is why most hutongs run east to west, with smaller north-south lanes joining them up. Seen from the air, old Beijing looked like a neat chessboard.

Naturally, some hutongs don't follow the rules. Qianshi Hutong, near Qianmen Street, is only about forty centimetres wide at its narrowest, so when two people meet, one has to turn sideways to let the other pass. And Jiudaowan Hutong winds back and forth through nineteen turns in all, so first-timers get lost easily.

Qing dynasty records list more than nine hundred Beijing lanes actually named “hutong”; by 1949 there were over thirteen hundred. But in the decades of rebuilding that followed, huge numbers of hutongs were torn down, and tower blocks and wide roads went up in their place. Of the hutongs that remain, some have become busy sights packed with tourists taking photos, while others are still quiet, home to old people who have never left in their lives.

So next time your map app sends you into a hutong, slow down. On these narrow lanes you are not just seeing a little alley, but seven hundred years of a city's everyday life.